I was able to do two trips into the Neacola mountains this spring. Both were climbing centered and had great results.
Ryan Driscoll and I flew in to the North Fork of the Pitchfork Glacier at the end of March during an extended stretch of high pressure. We had originally planned on heading to a completely different set of mountains, but a propane explosion at our third partner Michael’s house precluded him from coming, so we switched venues to the Neacolas.
We scoped out a bunch of objectives, but ultimately settled on the Citadel, a impressive peak on the south side of the North Fork. We climbed a new route on the Northwest part of the peak that we called Agent of Chaos. It was an excellent climb, with lots of engaging pitches.
Northwest side of the Citadel
Excellent alpine ice chimney
Ryan on the summit with Mt. Redoubt in the background.
In May Mark and I went into the North Fork of the pitchfork to explore unclimbed objectives in the area. The trip did experience its share of the notorious Neacola weather, but we did some good ski recon and found a good objective. We climbed a great snow and ice couloir on the East face of Peak 6858. Another great trip.
Mark on 6858’s lower snowfield. The Citadel and Mystery Mountain behind.
Mark at the summit of 6858 with Mt. Neacola in the background.
The Neacolas are a wild range of mountains. It was great to be exploring new terrain in the mountain wilderness of Alaska.